Back from a trip with mixed experiences. Had a nice time but had to cut it short at the end due to an emergency.

Went to Anuradhapura, Sigiriya, Dambulla and Kandy.
I guess it would be highly awe-insipiring to tourist from the West. While I really liked some of the places it wasn't actually 'whoa!' level.
What was universally impressive is the way they have maintained and highlighted the places (and charged heftily for the same!)

The massiveness of the Runaweli Mahasaya at Anuradhapura (I went on the full moon day in Jan, which is apparently a very auspicious day, so I kind of saw that in all its vibrance) was breathtaking. The famous cave painting in Sigiriya - kinda signature of SL - was more interesting than the view from atop the rock. The highlight was the ceiling painting in Dambulla cave. Sistine chapel ellAm ulagappugazh perudhu, idhaiyellAm much older and beautiful in its own right, yaarum avvaLavA solradhE illai! (felt the same in the ceiling sculptures/carvings in the penultimate chamber in the ChennakEsavA temple in Belur). Very well preserved.

The museums at Anuradhapura and Polonaruwa, musty as many of the Indian ones had some pretty ancient sculptures exposed in the perimeter rather nonchalantly! The ruins of Polonaruwa weren't that interesting but the huge reclining Buddha was

I have seen the huge one at Vat Chayamangalaram at Penang. Which is imposing. This is one isn't that big, but much much more ancient, bare and uncoloured (which is naturally more charming) and has an fantastic finish that left a huge impression. The depression in the 'thiNdu' he has under his head...how the deuce can you sculpt such a detail into such massive piece of rock! Amazing. The expression of Ananda (they seemed to call it the standing Budhdha!?) was also very well done. They have constructed a shed for protecting from rain but it kinda spoils the view IMO.

I haven't been to Ajanta-Ellora. Now I feel like going sooner rather than later.

One thing I see is how much effort goes into preserving (and cashing). There is a small samaNa-padukkai in Yanamalai in Madurai. It is on the way to the (now famous) Narasingam temple. It is 'maintained' by the ASI. Which means it has a padlock in a fence which at the foothills and no-one there. One has to scale the fence and go up the rocks and shrubs, deftly skipping drying shit to go up to see small friezes of Thirthankaras and a small- crumbling rock bed underneath a cave. Which is ten bloody centuries old. It is just ridiculous. I couldn't help thinking about it at every place I visited.